Homecar Audiotest Reportsjl Audio Vx700/5i Amplifier Review Jl Audio Vx700/5i

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Well, I changed my whole system over again. If you are keeping score, I accept gone from a(n) Arc Audio XDi850.five, to an AudioControl LC vi-1200 (and added a miniDSP C-DSP 6x8) to finally the JL VX1000/5i with integrated TuN software. Here are my initial impressions:
The Expert:

Like shooting fish in a barrel instructions

TuN initial setup is actually easy if you lot use the setup tool.

Plenty of support via instructional videos

Aesthetically pleasing

Clean power/sound

Clean and easy connections

TuN DSP integration is excellent.

The Bad

The easy connectors stick out a trivial

$$$$$$$

TuN Interface:

I am still working with Room EQ Wizard to get the PEQ values I need to install.

I used connectors for the speakers for ease of connections

The AudioControl certainly put out more power, merely I was trying to overcome road dissonance - I have since figured out and mitigated the loudest noises (rear bulkhead vents - covered with convoluted acoustic foam - with no pressure issues), so the JL sounds great. In one case I get done with REW (I'm having microphone issues) and tweak the PEQ, it'south going to sound fantastic.

The amp is powering and actively running

CDT Unity viii.0 widebands (holy crap these are fantastic)
Morel Tempo Ultra 6x9 drivers in the front doors
JL 12TW3-D8 sub

I also purchased the optional JL Audio DRC-205 (non pictured) which controls the sub attenuation as well every bit a primary book, AND you can toggle between multiple tune profiles!

I'm really hoping this is the last amp I buy......
Last edited: Mar eleven, 2021
I'm kinda downward with wide bands too correct now. The JL DRC is excellent too. I don't really use the volume control on my stereo anymore because of boot up time, and the stepped volume change progression. It's easier to just turn the knob down when I'k getting out and bump information technology support when I desire more ability. Quick toggle presets is really nice too, and Valet style, what a dick motion only I love it.
Where did y'all mount your LED?
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CDT audio makes some neat stuff. I'd eventually like to do something similar with the JL vx700/5i, the JL stealthbox, and those 6x9 morels or a 6.5 focal flax.
The DRC is killer. I mounted information technology in the same spot I have put all my amp dials, I'll accept a pic tomorrow.
I didn't even hook up the valet.
I love using the book control on it! And then much easier.
I'1000 curious, when you set your gains, did you follow the directions and play music, or did yous use test tones or pink noise?
I use an oscilloscope and test tones.
I used test tones, but used the software to set the levels. I'k just hoping I'one thousand not missing out by using music as specified....
It's not like you tin't sorta trust JL because if at that place is any company guilty of overthinking shit, information technology's JL. Proceed in mind you are talking about a VXi amplifier, and I have HD amplifiers, and so the setup procedure for each is different.
Now, I like to know exactly where I'm going to go clipping at each stride along the signal path, and so I'll check the fader setting on the radio for that spot where it start clips (and remember that number), or if y'all take an aftermarket, information technology probably won't prune fifty-fifty at full volume (if you buy nice stuff), like the Kenwood in my Tacoma. The Entune 3.0 in my 4Runner will begin to prune at fader 49 using a 1KHz sine @0dB reference.

Once you know this value, you tin begin to make decisions. Am I going to keep information technology turned down, and run the input signal hot? Do I non trust myself and limit my overall potential volume (meaning your normal listening level would rest at a higher fader value).

The manufacturers of all of this equipment has no faith in your power to at-home any sort of tits when it comes to listening volumes, so their instructions generally lean on the rubber side because they don't desire y'all to do what you want, accident something up and then get bitch to them most it. Yes, there are dicks that do that. If you lot don't follow the manual, you tin't really make a warranty claim and pretend to be blameless right?

So, knowing I'll get signal clipping at 49 and above in the 4Runner, I know I can run max voltage on everything else along the chain and avoid clipping/distortion every bit long as I don't turn the stereo upward whatever higher than that. Past max voltage, I hateful set to maximum specified values, not merely jacked all the fashion up. So this means I can set the stereo fader at 48, and connect my scope to the output of the next device like the DSP, and set sensitivity on that to get maximum output voltage with no clipping, then I'll move to the amplifier and do the same matter.

You tin fudge stuff here and at that place, people like to build in headroom when tuning their organization sometimes considering non all sources are set to the same reference. I have a lot of old CDs for example, and they merely aren't mastered nearly as hot as the new stuff so there volition hands be a 10-xv fader value deviation between those for the aforementioned output volume. This means, with music from these older CDs (unless I've normalized them when ripping to a digital file), the factory radio isn't reaching the voltage at which information technology begins to clip until fashion by 49, and depending on the input strength, I may never be able to reach that threshold even at maximum output book. God forbid yous accept your player on shuffle though, and forget to turn it downward between songs, because if a new recording comes upward next y'all're probably going to brick something.

It takes a lot of specific noesis to run a high output stereo and these are but a few of the considerations, and it's the very reason some of these DSPs have Valet modes that enable you to nerf the organisation when someone else has your truck.

So aye, it's complicated but JL is really good well-nigh providing yous kind of the best middle footing solution, which is why they chose 3/4 volume. It allows for that headroom and moderate distortion for short periods at the expense of some potential fidelity in the consequence y'all're only 1 of those people that either can't hear or doesn't care when the system is struggling.
So I have listened to the organization for a little over a week, switching between the 3 settings on the DSP. A couple of items of note:
1. I've been listening to music at lower volume levels than I have ever before when the windows are up. My sound deadening, while non perfect, has done a wonderful task of mitigating road dissonance/vibrations, and the music is just flat out enjoyable.
2. At high volumes, I am getting ear fatigue quickly.
3. I set the book of the head unit of measurement to the volume I fix the gains at, and have been using the DRC for the book control, making it incredibly like shooting fish in a barrel for me to find that "sweet spot" of book.
4. Something is not right with the staging of the subwoofer. The bass seems dingy for some reason - I'm not getting that ridiculous thump that I dear from that sub.
5. I've been listening primarily to the green contour. When I go to the blueish profile, information technology just seems like in that location is besides much bass overlapping.
6. Those Unity 8.0s absolutely amaze me. The highs are prissy and crisp, while bringing the audio phase for the low(er) stop up higher on the dash.
7. The "Ron'southward AF Tune" is the file I am trying to learn with. Right at present it has no EQ'ing, only X'Overs. Information technology's book is really loud, and I aspect that to not being eq'd.
Green file crossovers:

Blue file crossovers:

White file crossovers:
Not sure why y'all aren't using the aforementioned settings for your mid bass speakers. You take a smaller bandwidth and steeper low pass on one side.
I also don't know why you would mix Linkwitz Riley and Butterworth on the same aqueduct. It defeats the purpose of using Linkwitz Riley considering of how the different components interact at the crossover point.

Yous would only mix crossover orders if you are trying to solve a problem, generally all of the settings are compatible, so if you lot depression pass at 24dB, yous would high pass the same amount. If non y'all cause phase shift at the crossover point.

You also mostly depression and high pass from i frequency rather than creating a gap or overlap. I think your sub is low passed a little too loftier on the greenish contour.

I've establish that it's easy to get ear fatigue if you are too hot effectually 100Hz or too hot in the high midrange. Y'all might have i or both of those weather condition.

Last edited: Mar 31, 2021
The blueish settings were made by a guy on DIYMA. The way he explained it was in guild to become the LR 24dB slope acoustically, seting them electronically in this fashion gets you at that place.
I'k non sold on information technology.

The green profile is getting updated tomorrow with more traditional LR crossovers at 24dB slopes, with no overlap. The gap between the sub low laissez passer and the mid high pass is right from Andy's audiofrog melody guide.

I'one thousand not sold on that either.

I'g trying to learn how to tune this myself, but REW is kind of kicking my ass.. ..
Aye I read that a couple weeks ago and for all nosotros know he makes that recommendation because his sub honks like a mofo at 70Hz. Go on in mind his tuning guide is meant to be applied to the speakers they sell. All of your tuning choices are situational so pretty much go on information technology simple and standard until you run into something that needs a solution, and it may be that changing some crossover settings is the best solution which is fine, just take a reason first is my advice.
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Wow, nice setup. Your install looks nice and clean. Yous and I are running VERY similar systems.
Some notes:

Andy's tuning guide is invaluable for this whole process. As is the UM-1 and the included tuning CD. If y'all're having mic bug, this setup is well worth the coin.

24dbLW everywhere. Just do it.

Really. I mean REALLY! Get the speaker distance measurements set up correctly.

I personally wouldn't 10 those Unity's whatsoever lower than 400. Yous are at 300 in the first screen shot you put up. Yikes.

Also, knock out everything beneath 30hz or then on the sub. You're just wasting ability there. I made the slope a bit sharper here.

Here's my current 10's. I've tweeked a tiny bit hither and in that location. Simply for the almost office; Get these fix and exit em alone.

Tuning/house curves: Andy'due south sounds nice. Just, it lacks punch. Particularly when the truck is driving. I have tuned to something more lesser heavy and like it for the most function. Lost a bit of clarity in the process. I have more than to offer in that department over on DIYMA. (post currently nether structure)
This is a swell post. A actually bang-up mail.
I changed everything on my tune (dark-green) to 24LR. Also crossed at 400 for the CDTs. I also plant that my nuance speakers polarity was wrong, and that is what was probably giving me ear fatigue.

I have a steep learning curve, merely like I said, REW is killing me lol
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Spend the time and read through Andy's tuning guide that I posted at that place. I learned a TON. I'm actively tweeking this organisation (pun intended) so let me know where I can help.
I've been getting remote help from a member over on DIYMA (jtrosky), that blue tune is his melody.
REW is just killing me. It isn't exactly user friendly - of course I didn't read through the whole tuning guide, and I'm sure I skipped a stride in calibrating the sound card on the laptop, causing shit to go sideways. I'm using the UMIK-one mic.
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That's funny. James has helped me out quite a chip besides. If you look closely at those house curves in my post to a higher place, yous'll notice that i of them is his.
I found the same with REW initially. Again, referring to Andy's tuning guide, he totally walks y'all through the setup of what yous need to do.
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